Experiencing the authentic taste of Wagyu at Kuishinbo Yamanaka

It is located about a 20-minute walk through a residential area from Katsura Station of the Hankyu Line and you will suddenly spot an adorable sign marking its location.

Another great option is to take a taxi, about a 5 minute ride from Katsura Station or 30 minutes from Kyoto Station.

Once inside, the atmosphere almost feels like an old-fashioned Western diner. The wooden counter pairs perfectly with the red and black checkered placemats, giving it a warm and cozy vibe.

We visited with a large group this time, and as soon as we entered the restaurant, we all immediately noticed the impressive giant platters of meat prepared for us.

Chef Yamanaka proudly presented the red meat which was exquisitely laced all over with white marbling, saying, ‘This is real meat with all natural marbling!’

 The chef also explained that the sheen and stickiness on the surface are qualities which you would not find in meat with artificially-added marbling.

Since its opening in 1976, Kuishinbo Yamanaka has partnered exclusively with Maruki Fukunaga Kizaburo Shoten, a meat supplier in Shiga Prefecture. They handle only the finest Omi beef which is extremely hard to procure in the general market.

We took our seats, ordered our drinks while listening to Chef Yamanaka’s stories, and waited for the meal to begin.

The first dish was potato with butter.

The simple yet classic combination of fluffy potatoes with the melted butter was delicious! 

Next came the roast beef.

It was nothing like all the roast beef I had eaten until then. The level of freshness and succulence of the meat was apparent just by looking at it. Of course it was incredibly tender and juicy and filled with the rich flavor of the beef.

According to Chef Yamanaka, while cooking roast beef in low-temperature is the fad, the higher the quality of the meat, the better it tastes when it is actually grilled.

This dish proved his point and I was completely convinced of his statement. 

The third dish was sautéed fish (snapper).

To be honest I hadn’t expected fish to be served at a beef establishment. But it was not only tender but also absent of any and all “fishiness”, and the sauce was also incredibly delicious.

Chef Yamanaka mentioned that he sometimes goes fishing in Wakayama to personally catch the fish used in the fumet de poisson (fish stock) for this sauce.

Next came the beef consomme soup.

Mr. Yamanaka said that the color of the consomme reflects the amount of meat extract it contains.

This remarkable soup dish was filled with the rich flavors of meat and vegetables cooked and simmered for a long time in the kitchen, and had a depth of flavor which left a lasting impression on me. 

Finally, it was time for the main course: the Steak.

Before grilling, Chef Yamanaka asked each of us for our preferred doneness (how well we would like the meat to be cooked), but we all opted for his recommendation instead.

Chef Yamanaka placed the grilled steak on the plate while his wife carefully arranged it. The harmony between the elderly couple was wonderful, reflecting their years of partnership.

This amazing plate of steak and grilled vegetables was served in front of us, together with white rice and salad.

This time we were provided with both ribeye (on the left in the image) and tenderloin (on the right in the image) as a special service. (However when making your reservation via My Concierge, one must select either cut of beef.)

The ribeye allowed us to enjoy the juiciness of the fat, while the tenderloin had less fat and we were able to savor its more meaty flavor. Both cuts were truly delicious.

The heaviness of the fat associated with Wagyu I had eaten before was noticeably absent, making it delightfully refreshing . It was also nice that the steak was cut into bite-sized pieces for easy eating with chopsticks.

We enjoyed dipping the meat in the provided mustard and eat it together with garlic chips, both which enhanced its flavor and paired well with the white rice.

The final dish was a strawberry shortcake and coffee. 

This cake was also handmade by the chef. The strawberries were extremely sweet while the whipped cream was rich but not overly sweet. 

Once the word is out, I imagine it will be become even more challenging to make a reservation at Kuishinbo Yamanaka, however, I believe that more people around the world need to experience the incredible taste and quality of this authentic Wagyu.

I encourage you to visit Kuishinbo Yamanaka to taste the difference between their finest meat and the artificially marbled beef often sold at high prices at other wagyu beef establishments.

Although it is located slightly away from the city center of Kyoto, this restaurant is one which is definitely worth visiting.